Textile industry sustainability: Unpacking the potential of EPR for circular practices

Titolo Rivista RIVISTA DI STUDI SULLA SOSTENIBILITA'
Autori/Curatori Anna Pettini, Luca Montini
Anno di pubblicazione 2024 Fascicolo 2024/2
Lingua Inglese Numero pagine 16 P. 87-102 Dimensione file 130 KB
DOI 10.3280/RISS2024-002006
Il DOI è il codice a barre della proprietà intellettuale: per saperne di più clicca qui

Qui sotto puoi vedere in anteprima la prima pagina di questo articolo.

Se questo articolo ti interessa, lo puoi acquistare (e scaricare in formato pdf) seguendo le facili indicazioni per acquistare il download credit. Acquista Download Credits per scaricare questo Articolo in formato PDF

Anteprima articolo

FrancoAngeli è membro della Publishers International Linking Association, Inc (PILA)associazione indipendente e non profit per facilitare (attraverso i servizi tecnologici implementati da CrossRef.org) l’accesso degli studiosi ai contenuti digitali nelle pubblicazioni professionali e scientifiche

This paper explores the potential of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) sys-tems to enhance sustainability in the European textile industry, which is both eco-nomically significant and environmentally impactful. EPR assigns lifecycle re-sponsibility to producers, encouraging sustainable design and waste management. The paper compares the centralized mono-consortium model, exemplified by Franceìs Refashion Consortium, with Italy’s emerging multi-consortium approach. While mono-consortiums offer centralized control, multi-consortiums promote competition and innovation. The success of EPR in driving circularity in the textile sector depends on context-specific policies that engage all stakeholders.

Keywords:Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), textile waste management, circular economy, mono-consortium system, multi-consortium system.

  1. Lindhqvist T. (2000). Extended Producer Responsibility in Cleaner Production: Policy Principle to Promote Environmental Improvements of Product Systems. Lund University.
  2. Arnold M. G., Pfaff C., & Pfaff T. (2023). Circular Business Model Strategies Progressing Sustainability in the German Textile Manufacturing Industry. Sustainability, 1-29.
  3. Bockholt M. T., Hemdrup Kristensen J., Colli M., Meulengracht Jensen P., & Vejrum Waehrens B. (2020). Exploring factors affecting the financial performance of end-of-life take-back program in a discrete manufacturing context. Journal of Cleaner Production, 1-9.
  4. Bonato D. (2021). Guida strategica alla progettazione dei sistemi EPR. CDCA – Centro Documentazione Conflitti Ambientali.
  5. Bukhari M., Carrasco-Gallego R., & Ponce-Cueto E. (2018). Developing a national programme for textiles and clothing recovery. Waste Management & Research, 321-331.
  6. Campbell-Johnston K., Calisto Friant M., Thapa K., Lakerveld D., & Vermeulen W. (2020). How circular is your tyre: Experiences with extended producer responsibility from a circular economy perspective. Journal of Cleaner Production.
  7. Cunha Marques R., Cruz F. d., & Nuno (2015). Recycling and Extended Producer Responsibility: The European Experience. London: Routledge.
  8. Di Stefano D. (2023, marzo 2). Novità per i rifiuti tessili: la bozza di decreto sulla responsabilità estesa del produttore (EPR). Tratto da Economiacircolare.com: https://economiacircolare.com/rifiuti-tessili-bozza-decreto-epr/.
  9. European Commission (2022). Strategia dell’UE per prodotti tessili sostenibili e circolari.
  10. European Commission (1992). Maastricht Treaty.
  11. European Commission (2023). Proposal for a DIRECTIVE OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL amending Directive 2008/98/EC on waste.
  12. European Parliament and The Council of European Union (2018). Consolidated text: Directive 2008/98/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 19 November 2008 on waste and repealing certain Directives.
  13. European Parliament and The Council of European Union (2024). European Parliament legislative resolution of 13 March 2024 on the proposal for a directive of the European Parliament and of the Council amending Directive 2008/98/EC on waste (COM(2023)0420 – C9-0233/2023 – 2023/0234(COD)).
  14. Gerbendahl A., & Johansson M. (2020). EU Waste Framework Directive; What’s Next?. Linkopings.
  15. Harmsen P., Scheffer M., & Bos H. (2021). Textile for Circular Fashion: The Logic behind Recycling Options. Sustainability.
  16. Horisch J., Johnson M. P., & Schaltegger S. (2014). Implementation of Sustainability Management and Company Size: A Knowledge-Based View. Business Strategy and the Environment, 765-779.
  17. Joltreau E. (2018). Pricing products negative externalities at end-of-life using eco-modulation: discussion from case studies. Economics and Policy of Energy and the Environment, 149-172.
  18. Juanga-Labayen J., Labayen I., & Yuan Q. (2022). A Review on Textile Recycling Practices and Challenges.
  19. Leclerc S. H., & Badami M. G. (2023). Extended producer responsibility: An empirical investigation into municipalities’ contributions to and perspectives on e-waste management. Environmental Policy and Governance.
  20. Lindhqvist T. (1992). Extended producer responsibility as a strategy to promote cleaner products. Lund University.
  21. Matthes A. B., Cebulla H., Arnold M. G., & Schumann A. (2021). Sustainable Textile and Fashion Value Chains. Springer Link.
  22. Okafor C. C., Madu C. N., Ajaero C. C., Ibekwe J. C., & Nzekwe C. A. (2021). Sustainable management of textile and clothing. Clean Technologies and Recycling, 70-87.
  23. Pal R. (2014). Sustainable Business Development Through Designing Approaches for Fashion Value Chains. In: S. S. Muthu, Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing (p. 227-261). Berlin: Springer Link.
  24. Refashion (2023). Activity Report 2022.
  25. Riemens J., Lemieux A.-A., & Lamouri S. (2021). A Delphi-Réigner Study Addressing the Challenges of Textile Recycling in Europe for the Fashion and Apparel Industry. Sustainability.
  26. Shen B., Li Q., Dong C., & Perry P. (2017). Sustainability Issues in Textile and Apparel. Sustainability, 1-6.
  27. Shooshtarian S., Maqsood T., Wong P. S., Khalfan M., & Yang R. J. (2021). Extended Producer Responsibility in the Australian Construction Industry. Sustainability, 1-20.
  28. Textile Exchange (2022). Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report.
  29. Tojo N. (2004). Extended Producer Responsibility as a Driver for Design Change - Utopia or Reality?. Lund University.
  30. Tojo N., Lindhqvist T., & Davis G. A. (2001). EPR Programme Implementation: Institutional and Structural Factors – OECD Seminar on Extended Producer Responsibility. Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Develepment.
  31. Vermeulen W., Backes C., de Munck M., Campbell-Johnston K., Mae de Waal I., & Carreòn J. R. (2021). Pathways for Extended Producer Responsibility on the road to a Circular Economy, White paper based on aliterature review and the results of a Delphi study, on the experiences with EPR in the Netherlands . Utrecht: Utrecht University.
  32. Vermeulen W., Campbell-Johnston & Thapa K. (2022). Extended Producer Responsibility and Circular Economy: Three Design Flaws. Ökologisches Wirtschaften – Fachzeitschrift, 21-23.
  33. Wang S., & Salmon S. (2022). Progress toward Circularity of Polyester and Cotton Textiles. Sustainable Chemistry, 376-403.
  34. Watson D., Kiorboe N., Palm D., Tekie H., Ekvall T., Lindhqvist T., . . . Gìslason S. (2014). EPR-systems and new business models Part II: Policy packages to increase reuse and recycling of textiles in the Nordic region.

Anna Pettini, Luca Montini, Textile industry sustainability: Unpacking the potential of EPR for circular practices in "RIVISTA DI STUDI SULLA SOSTENIBILITA'" 2/2024, pp 87-102, DOI: 10.3280/RISS2024-002006